Wednesday, September 28, 2011


Now that I have a job during school I have more financial freedom to plan trips, bouldering or not.  This makes me overwhelmingly excited, giddy like a school girl.  At the moment I have 3 trips planned in the comming three months, the Golden Triangle, Leavenworth, Tacoma/Bishop.

The Golden Triangle, what I'm calling a potential bouldering spot in Montana, is far from anything I have ever come across.  Normally you associate bouldering to the mountains, but this may prove that wrong.  Or it could be terrible.  Let's hope not.  I've poured probably a solid 24 hours into research of the area; mapping, type or rock, and property owners, in the past 4 or 5 months.  Potentially in 10 days, potentially in 17 days, potentially after Leavenworth, not sure when I plan on making the trek over there.  Look for updates in the coming weeks.

Leavenworth, mid-October with SAMANDKIRSTEN, omg.  We are rallying over for brews and boulders.  I've been to Leavenworth twice during the mid-summer, so temps were not ideal.  I've managed to do a couple good/hard problems there, but there are so many good problems I want to finish up.  Specifically the Coffee Cup, Prism, Busted, and continue projecting Cotton Pony(dream problem).  I know Sammy has been getting his BB's on at the circuit, so maybe, just maybe, the worlds will align and we will send some shit.

Tacoma/Bishop, the biggggg trip planned.  Now that I'm a big boy, I don't need to go home to my family for christmas, a holiday I absolutely don't believe in religiously (firm atheism here).  So I am headed to Tacoma with my lovely girlfriend for the holidays, through New Years.  Gonna eat lots of protein/fat to prep for Bishop, maybe go to BC, maybe do an alpine climb with her dad?! I don't know.  Then after New Years, we are headed down to meet, yes, you guessed it, SAMANDKIRSTEN, in PDX.  From there we will caravan down to bloclandia, climb for two weeks and come back to Missoula for a late winter-session class.  So many things to do in Bishop, I have been there once, 2.5 years ago when I was a gumby v4 climber.  High Plains Drifter, Checkerboard, Soul Slinger, Atari, Disco Diva, and Stained Glass look super quality.  Stoked!

After enduring a wicked cold, many gym sessions, and fewer benders, I'm getting a bit leaner.  Feeling like I can crank on just about anything, for about 5 moves.

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Freestone Grand Opening and the Future?

Yesterday was the grand opening of Freestone climbing gym.  It's been open for about a month, collecting memberships of the die-hard dirtbags and getting the buzz out.  With two kegs, a BBQ, and climbing, the place was packed.  I'd say more than 50 people were there during the slideshows/movies/emptying of the  last keg.  Walt had me give a quick slideshow on Lolo, so I managed to talk Levi into speaking a bit before I showed 20 or so photos.  The crowd was loud and drunk, which I had no problem with, considering the circumstances.  But a few people really just wouldn't shut the fuck up.  Specifically the DJ I heard several times chatting up a storm, a conversation that apparently couldn't wait 5 minutes.    After the media was over, a drunken dyno session ensued.  After a solid 30 minutes of lining up to do absurdly big and difficult jumps, I had my fill and went on to another party.  An excellent day for sure.

In other news, depending on rock quality, this place could be the future of bouldering in Montana.  In the coming weeks a few of us are going to venture out to this giant boulder field to check it out.

 Several house-sized blocs, waiting to be climbed.

Monday, September 19, 2011


Sunday morning Levi picked me up with plans of crushing at Lolo, we dropped by Bob and Justin's house to caravan but unfortunately Bob threw a hail-mary the night before downtown, so he was stuck in bed. Bob and Justin are some good ol' Wyoming boys that just moved up here a couple months ago. Cool and strong dudes, just what we needed in Missoula. We took Justin on a ride of his life up Spring Gulch and 4200, pulling up to the top of Granite Ridge to a soaked road. Motivation dropped, so we took Justin on a tour of the Pistol, Euro Stone, and Super Chron boulders. Back at the truck we decided to dick around on the Beautiful boulder. Boobies, Way of the Samurai, Heartbroken, and the mega-project were tried.

Some photos:

Justin up high on Heartbroken V8/9

Cuttin' feet on the intro cross move

Levi warming up on Way of the Samurai V10

Airing out Hooray for Boobies V6

Another from Way of the Samurai

Anniversary photo with our dogchild Callie.

Saturday, September 17, 2011

2 Years

September 17th, 2009 was the first time I hung out with Victoria. We went to Lost Horse with one of her roommates, drank PBR, and did a bit of bouldering. It was a memorable day, as I was secretly plotting to date her, she had no idea. Logically, with all my egotism, I took them to the motherload so I could look real strong/weak on my project at the time, the original Zulu. After many failed attempts, I managed to finally get the first move and took it to the top. As I stood on top, excited, I looked down only to see her roommate down below the boulder. WTF. Turns out Victoria just topped out the V0 to the right of Zulu as I stuck the first move. For a while, she didn't believe that I did it. Maybe she still doesn't believe it....well karma is a bitch and she got stung by two bees that day, so I guess we're even.

Somewhat Sentimental

Monday, September 12, 2011

Weekend Urrpdate

Hell of a weekend. Victoria's sister Eliza and boyfriend Bryce came into town Friday night. Went downtown and met up with some good folks to celebrate my birthday a couple days early. Many shots and strong beers ensued, as we ended up pretty hammered at the Oxford at 1 a.m. Woke up a bit haggard, slowly packed the car and Victoria and I were off for round two of the birthday bender. Got to Lost Horse, did Montana Meathook for the millionth time and deemed the temps too hot. Stuck around camp for a bit, took the dog for a swim, and watched the people roll in. Overall a strong showing, clearly a sign of solid marketing by Corey and random but very strong climbing community. It's eye-opening being stuck in certain cliques, when you see 100 people out supporting LoHo canyon that you've never seen at LoHo canyon. Interesting. The dyno comp was less than inspirational. Poor setting was surely the diagnosis. But the keg was tapped and people were stoked. It was like climbers had a welfare program and Corey was the communist dictator, giving away endless prizes for the raffle. Nice to see a lot of happy campers with new gear. I, however, got fuck all nothing...aka a chalk bag with chalk/tape. Useful I suppose. After the raffle, a select group of elite climbers/stoners convened and all was right in the world. Passed out early, left the canyon early and was treated to BB'S BIRTHDAY BREAKFAST AT MCDONALDS. Victoria knows me so well. A relaxed day included lunch/beers with my dad and a Big Dipper SUPERNOVA to top it off.

Somewhat Heavier

Friday, September 9, 2011

Wednesday, September 7, 2011


Two months ago I had an excellent day at Lolo.  Finally got around to editing the footage.

Somewhat Narcissistic

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Somewhat of an Asshole

People that know me well, know that I'm kind of an asshole. Kind of to say the least. Keep in mind that I realize I can be perhaps a bit jaded, argumentative, elitist and close-minded.

I had a BBQ a couple weeks back and a couple of us were talking shit about some shitty people, naturally. Levi pointed out that I didn't like anyone. It wasn't a stark realization that I'm introverted and unfriendly, but it certainly proved the point that I'm just a rude guy to most people.

I could compromise and make everyone feel happy-happy-joy-joy when they are around me, but is it even worth it? I don't feel like myself when I'm Mr. KissAss, and I'm debating on whether that is a good or bad thing, or just a thing.

Here is an example from the other day:

I'm in the gym, some egotistical turd of a guy decides to spray me down with beta on something I've never tried, something that I would like to figure out on my own. Would I say "Oh gosh, thanks for showing me, I didn't even have to ask!" or would I say, "Kindly fuck off, spray yourself while you urinate instead of spraying me." Normally I would gravitate to the second one, but I landed somewhere in between with a blank stare at him with no words. Yes, he was only trying to help, but clearly it shows that he wants to show off, consciously or subconsciously. Fuck that, I say, when I'm paying $30 a month of a membership, keeping to myself and trying hard, the last thing I want is the turd-teacher up on the wall narrating the sequence.

I've come to two possibilities.

1. I'm an outrageous dick, who needs to be more open to people like turd-teacher
2. I have finer taste in who I want to talk to and be friends with, hence my innate ability to pick out the gems and scoff at the turds.

In other news, I turn 23 in a matter of days. In true fashion I will be out at Lost Horse for the Boulder Bash, getting beyond fucked up on beer and maybe some bouldering in between the 120z curls.

Somewhat Older