Thursday, December 22, 2011


We have arrived in Tacoma, but forgot to pack climbing shoes.  We didn't forget to bring the pads, which makes not having shoes even more frustrating.  Fuck.

Googled Tacoma - boom! Rainier

Perhaps a quick trip to PDX to visit some bishes might yield some cheap clown shoes.  COME ON SAM-TA CLAUS.  Taking a lot of photos, as 2011 was the year of not taking pictures.  

Wednesday, December 14, 2011


Ah yes, even as a staunch atheist, this is a great season.  A time for family, alcohol, food and little to no climbing.  Every year I have taken at least 3 weeks off around this time to get my body mass index through the roof.  Tis the season to be BBs.  I have a sneaking suspicion that Sam Dogan Johnson shares this sentiment as well.  One more final to go, then a solid month break from Grizlandia.

It's been exactly 2 months since I got outside to climb, or even really cared about climbing in general.  Well, the break is about to be over.  New motivation as 2011 comes to a close has got me really itching to get outside.  Headed home for a little bit this weekend with Victoria, might make a stop at Rattler on the way if it's nice, and maybe if the stars align a short Boulder Batholith session on the way back.  Love me some Cretaceous plutonism and spheroidal weathering.  Seeing as my endurance is utter shit, all the time, short routes would be a good way to get some climbing in and Rattler offers some shitty short routes.  Anyone have recommendations?  Whiskey or new areas?  Decisions, decisions.

Tuesday, December 6, 2011

Evolution (or timeline narcissism)

It's snowy here in Missoula-land, and cold.  What better way to distract myself from 20 pages of scientific writing than to blog about self-aggrandizement throughout the past 4 years of climbing.  Laugh all you want at these photos, I encourage it, because there is an inherent goodness and gumby-ness that deserves attention.  Everyone has had these moments, yet we absolutely despise those epic gumby bros with the 5.10 coyotes(my first shoes).  At least I do, because I know people probably despised my lanky, lurpy ass thrutching on the slightest overhanging V0.  Get hazed and then haze, like team sports!

Mega-Epic Top Rope, Bro! - Phase

I first started climbing the summer after I graduated high school.  Blue Cloud was THE practice crag, so obviously you'd find us there most weekends and weeknights.  It was about a month after I started climbing I got real climbing shoes, size 14 coyotes.  This is easily the most nostalgic phase so far in climbing.  

 5.8 at Blue Cloud, in hiking shoes.  My very first climbing experience.

5.9 crack to 5.11 face, woolies, coyotes, excellence.  Blue Cloud.

Fuck, let's face it, this period is the last time I really enjoyed rope climbing.  If you know anything about me, you should know that my disdain for rope climbing is great.  The last thing I want to do is chuff around on a rope all day and get pumped out of my mind, not send and worry about some janky bolts.  Also did a ONE DAY, FREE ASCENT of Blackfoot Dome 5.6 my sophomore year.  NBD.

The ever classic Dos Amigos 5.6, first sport lead.  

Road Goes on Forever, .10d, Blue Cloud
Best single pitch I've ever done.  Jumbo Love was choss.

Slab bouldering on a rope, Pocket Hunter, .10c, Indian Creek.  GREASE.


I once taped a route and called it "dynosaur".... yes, I was that guy.  Fucking douche, right?  Unbelievable amounts of time spent in this hell pit known as the UM gym.  Met great folks, met even more fuckheads.  I've spent more time in this room than anywhere on campus, besides my dorm freshman year.  



We went to the desert my freshmen year, of course I'm going to take my shirt off.  Yes, this is where my affinity for bouldering really took off.  I spent the majority of my time looking at climbing porn, projecting v5 at lost horse and being a rowdy drunk.  These were great days.

Unknown choss pile at Big Bend
I wish I was still this skinny

The real way to do Montana Meathook V6
I recall eating 6 bratwurst later that day, which was probably the onset of BBs Syndrome

Mega Baller Tank, Bro - Phase

This was the phase when I thought V6 was the next level.  Clearly out of touch, but clearly great style points override anything.  Lot's of cigs, beers at boulders, screaming barfies and whining about grades.

G2-07, Joe's Valley, before tall man beta was found

#1 crimpers of doooooom, whiskey gulch, baller

I hate bouldering in groups and people in general - phase

This is when I started chugging hater-ade and climbing with my girlfriend.  I still do both of these today, but just another starting point.  Sporadic bouldering develops, more gym time.

Great White, Lolo, 4 stars.

Caught in the Act, one of several punts, Whiskey Gulch

Foreshadowing? - Phase

Basically in the past year I've mentally realized the potential for bouldering in the state of Montana.  Google earth, books, photos online have all been great resources for finding new boulders.  I think my current path is set for discovering areas and development.  As of right now, 5 or 6 new places are fairly accessible, a couple of them could be world class?  I'm not sure.  

LoHo Projects