Sunday, April 29, 2012


 Lolo season is back.  You'll know where to find me.

 Callie likes Lolo

Tryin' hard on Hieroglyphics

The Hideout

The Rabbit, still hard.

4200, pads and the new rig.

Sunday, April 22, 2012

Lost Horse

Rolled out with Levi "maverick" Parchen to LoHo in the early a.m. today to beat the 80 degree forecast.  Managed to be at roadside by 9:30, the earliest I've ever made it there, an alpine start for sure!  Warmed up on the circuit, did a new problem on the gladiator boulder, though it may have been done before.  We were thinking around V6/7, though it's height dependent and there is two ways to do it.  Levi in all of his core strength was able to match up the terrible slopers while I managed a neat moon-kick to a flat crimper.  Pretty cool line.  Similar movement to Montana Meathook, but quite a bit harder.

We checked out Seemingly Impossible, the worlds most sandbagged V6.  Levi pieced the moves together but no send.  I flailed, naturally. 

Since the weather had been warm all week, we decided to drive up the canyon to test out my new rig and to see how far up one could get.  We managed to get up 4 or 5 miles until the snow pack got a little too deep and soft.  We were going to check out a talus field I have been scouting but being day drunkish at 2 pm when it's 70 out leaves something to be desired.  A nap, specifically. 

A stellar day out in the woods.  Lolo season is fucking close!  I would imagine 4200 is still a bit snowy but if this weather prevails for a little longer, Lolo season will begin.

In other news, but not "news" we saw maybe two parties out climbing today.  I know all those university superstars were tearing up some sicky gnar plastic today.  What a waste of a day.  I guess plastic and 5.8 Mill Creek choss prevails.

I was at the Bridge Pizza this evening in my quest for obesity and overheard some bros talking about climbing.  I love overhearing climbing discussions, especially when they are so blatantly idiotic and out of touch.  A good one:

"You ever been to Pipestone Pass?" "Yeah man, they have really awesome gear sales there!"

-Forever an asshole


Monday, April 16, 2012


Geography degree = excuse to talk about climbing academically.

"One might think of Mt. Everest as the pinnacle of wilderness, vast and empty.  But ironically it’s also the world’s highest burial ground.  Some mountaineers won’t attempt to rescue injured summit bidders, as the potential for more death increases considerably.  This could be regarded as extremely selfish and ill mannered, but the act of climbing mountains is inherently selfish and egotistical."

Cultural Ecology Research Paper, Page 6 of 15.  Thanks for being so storied and fucked up, Mt. Everest culture.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Quick Update

Photos are posted from Bishop.  It was an excellent time, getting away from the bubble of Missoula and all of it's shitness.  Felt good going to an area where we didn't know anyone, except for a random gym rat Dean who is on a long road trip from Missoula.  I forgot how deafening the desert really is, just wind and sun. Chapped lips, sun burns, and dehydration - check.  Had a couple good sends, as did Victoria.  Tried a lot of problems, have a lot of projects to get back to.  Of course.  I forgot how glassy everything is down there which was a MAJOR drawback.  Trying hard on glass in 75 degree heat with 30 mph winds certainly didn't make for the best conditions, but we made the best of it.  We left early because of tornado like conditions and relaxed at Victoria's parents house for a couple of days before getting back to Missoula.  We ate like royalty which was a nice change from desert dirtbag life. 

School is nearly over.  Only a month until Victoria graduates.  Levi tells me Lolo is starting to clear up.  New areas are calling.  The weekend looks stellar for sending conditions.  The plan is to go check out a some new boulders near Kootenai this weekend.  I've been scouting digitally and as one can imagine, the Bitterroot is endless.  I know people have their own little boulder areas that never get press, but it's still amazes me that more areas haven't been developed.  I'm not sure if thats because peole are lazy and unimaginative or if it's that they are ignorant, having no idea such fruitful areas exist close to Missoula.  Expect photos from the new area this weekend.  I have a good feeling about this area, as it sits in the mylonite shear zone of the Bitterroot and the terrain lends itself to steep climbing.