Tuesday, August 28, 2012

The Season

Levi did Cosmic Damage.  

School started.  For the 6th time.  Fortunately my last year.  Enough said on that topic. 

But with school starting, more leisure time allows for more climbing.  Starting Sept. 1st I'll be carrying my gun along with climbing shoes in my pad.  Upland bird season and climbing season coincide so well together, making the best days in life:  bagging a limit and scoring some points on the sharp Lolo batholith. 

The next few months will be dedicated to school, painting, a wedding, bird/elk hunting in Lolo, deer hunting in the Milk and Missouri rivers, and of course flailing.

I fucking love this place.

Friday, August 17, 2012


A quick little blurb on Lolo:

New problems and projects are happening even during hot temps.  This summer has seen action on problems hard, tall and long.  A few:

Riverbloc Boulder (Granite Creek Rd.)
A renasiaance of the river boulder during the heatwave of summer has led to many projects.  One in particular that Levi is really close on involves steep crimps, slopes, underclings, heelhooks and massive tension power endurance.  Most likely V11, this problem will certainly be the hardest and one of the best in Lolo when it's done.  A few other V12+++ projects exist on the boulder as well but will see minimal action at best in the near future.

Alchemist Low

The natural low start to the Alchemist.  Very doable but very finicky.  Stand is V9, low will probably be around a 10.  This is certainly my fall goal.

Hideout Arete

Levi sent a new techy hard arete in the hideout-ish sector.  Apparently rad and hard.


A new one on the Corridor boulers.  A stretchy, dynamic gym type problem.  A variant more or less of Fuckin' Cheeseball (a classic and rad V8/9, now broken).  Happy to call this one my own.  Low end V6 for me.

Cosmic Damage

One of the most aesthetic problems in lolo.  Likely V10ish.  A true overhanging stunner in the Opium Den sector.

Fall was here temporarily on Wednesday.  Iskra and I enjoyed goodish conidtions on Granite Ridge.

The 45 feels vertical at the garage.  Can't wait to get some more power from the 55.  Getting some new holds and a large box of chalk ordered on Monday.  This place is perfect.

Reasons why the garage is better than Freestone:

You can drink beer
You can smoke
You can set problems
You can climb whenever
You can climb with rad folks
You can climb steep terrain
You can do dips, pull ups, hangboard, campus board, bands and weights
You can listen to profane, outlandish music
You buy a set of holds and can climb forever.  A set of holds ia Freestone's monthly payment, btw.
You will get strong

Come and get it, dickheads.

Tuesday, August 14, 2012


Lately there has been zero Lolo.  Occassional evening sessions at the riverbloc keep us sane.  We built a woody (another one) at Levi's this weekend.  The garage is miles beyond Freestone.  Let's face it, a pile of my dog's shit is miles beyond that junk show.  Now complete with a 45 and a 55 this place is an epic training facility. 

Iskra, Parchen and I are looking for interns.  People who are excited about training and climbing on actual rocks. 

Calling all interns.